back on the mainland...

...Acazia and I have spent the past 4 or 5 days (I really can't rememeber)... on the island of Ko Yao Noi--a little island in the Andaman Sea. A laid back, untouristified little place that only a few years ago got electricity brought to them under the water. It is one of the most untouched places we visited the entire trip...We headed there following the suggestion of Jay, Donna and Kate who have a friend who lives there part of the year. After biking around the entire island, we finally found Mark and his amazing house on the hill overlooking TaKao Bay. Being an absolute stranger, a mere friend of a friend, he was wonderfully generous and let us stay in his house for a few days while he went to Phuket. We spent the days lying on the huge deck, kayaking, reading, napping, wandering around, watching the monkeys harvest coconuts, playing Jenga with the local village kids, improving our Thai language skills with Gob (the amazing woman who cooks at the nearby Sea Gypsy Restaurant), watching the tides go in and out and basically, tumbling further into the silent bliss of disappearing into vacation...and ...

.......

....... I think I have reached that point...that point where you have officially recharged...Where being on vacation has paid off and you have achieved what the postcards and the t-shirts promise. Three months later and I think I am the most relaxed I have ever been in my life (besides that 9 month stint in the womb). These days, I only see what is right there in front of me and nothing else invades my thoughts. I look out at the ocean and the stars and my mind only says the words "ocean" and "stars"... I feel like my brain is floating and there is not much to do other than to let it float. While this state of near Nirvana is enviable, it doesn't make for the most interesting conversation. I can't believe it, but I think I am DONE with vacation. Pinch me, but it is true. I think it's time to return to that life I left 3 months ago. During the moments when my brain is actually engaged, I find my thoughts turning away from the gorgeous sea of islands in front of me towards cravings of things like getting into my car, driving it, parking it, going grocery shopping, getting back into it and drving home...things like going to the post office and waiting in an endless line...paying bills...sweeping my floors...folding piles of laundry...eating mexican food...ummm and i admit it, I even have these inklings of craving going back to work (!) I'll keep you posted on how long that one lasts, but in the mean time, I can officially say that I THINK I may have had enough travelling for awhile... . .. .. . ...

.. . . .. . . . ....where was I? .. . . . . ....Oh, right...

We left Ko Yao Noi and began our exit strategy back to the states. We took a boat, a pick-up truck and a bus up the coast to the town of Ranong...Why? Because it seemed to be on the way AND it claimed to have some amazing hot springs. It WAS on the way, and it did have hot springs. We opted to enjoy them at a spa that syphoned the water in to a "luxurious" pool as the brochure stated. Thought we'd treat ourselves to some TLC before the journey home....hmmmm...We walked to the place expecting SOMEthing in the 10,000 Waves arena..but were sort of jarred as we approached the delapidated, half-destoyed looking hotel/spa complex on the side of the hill. It looked like a tornado had ripped thru it and the jungle had been growing over it for a century...but my guidebook, published LAST year, said it was fabulous?!?! .... we proceeded as if approaching an accident site, not sure of what we were about to see beyond each corner....BUT sure enough, the place was "open"...We continued to wander in slowly. There was a door man. Hello. There was a woman pushing a cart of towels. Hello. And then there was the front desk. Fully staffed. 3 Women just sitting there...and NO ONE ELSE. Hello. The place was entirely empty. Usually this would be a sure sign to leave, but we were sort of spellbound by the oddity of the place. It was like a Thai, non-snowy version of The Shining. We ate lunch in a gigantic banquet hall absolutely alone and in silence. The same woman was our waitress, our cook and our cashier--she just floated seamlessley from job to job filling the holes in the emptiness...there wasn't even any Muzak.....It was SO ODD!!!

We walked thru echoing hallways and made our way to the Spa area. We saw no one. The pool was gorgeous and full of water. Whew. There were orchids everywhere and live coy fish filled a little pond. Whew. A man appeared out from behind a wall and welcomed us just as we walked in. He explained the hot water and pool area to us and showed us in--nothing out of the ordinary, so we figured, hey, it's probably just a slow day...and well...it was. But it was SO WIERD!!! Even more wierd, the hot springs were SO hot we couldn't even get INTO them. We tried dammit, we tried, but it HURT! I put my toes in for a few seconds expecting the burning sensation to stop, but it just got worse...we sat and stared at the massive pool that we could never even imagine getting into. what the hell is wrong with this place?! we decided instead to use the regular swimming pool and lay in the sun...forgoing the spa treatments offered--it was all just too strange. The afternoon passed and we see NO one in the 300 room hotel except a few people watering plants (why?), pushing carts (to where?) and folding towels (for who?). Then, as we got dressed and ready to leave, a sea of elderly women came in and one by one got into the cauldron of a hot spring as if it was a mild bath. I cringed as they entered becasue, truly, the stuff was BURNING my flesh off and here, these geezers were just wading on in...AMAZING. We decided that this was a hot springs for alien women immune to temperature or a strange colony like in the movie Cocoon....we left slowly, walked past a few maids, who smiled and stared, the three women at the front desk, and finally the doorman who waved us out in to the delapidated, bomb crater of a parking lot.....Have a nice day. He smiled strangely, desperately. See you again. Right.

* * * *

Today Acazia and I are in Bangkok--back on the mainland. A boatride, a pick up truck, another pickup truck and 10 hour busride later and we are back where we began--- In the city of cities surrounded by airconditioning, fashionable teenagers and people in their fresh "I just landed in Bangkok to start my 3 month vacation" clothes. . .It all feels kind of surreal--like the scuba diving-- where you come up to the surface and you breathe the air and you wonder where the hell you just WERE for the past hour...the world above the surface instantly occupies all of your senses in a more frenetic way and you have to struggle to remember all the details of your dive down below....thank god you took pictures because really, all you can do now is concentrate on keeping your head above the water, absorb all the crazy sounds that now flood your head and notice what a gift simply breathing is. Traveling is exactly like that, I think.

* * *

In an attempt to remember all the details of our trip, Acazia and I have begun work on our Best/Worst+High/Low List....to sort of recap the points that stick best in our memories. We have yet to finish it, so stay tuned for such titilating entries as "Worst Squat Toilet in Laos" and "Moment That Caused the NON-Believer Acazia To Recite The Hail Mary"... I think such a list will best show you our trip. So.... Enjoy your turkey dinners--Happy Thanksgiving.

xoxo Liza